Edward Bunyard was a pomologist in the tradition of the great Victorian authority, Dr Robert Hogg. He is best known to fruit lovers now through his book The Anatomy of Dessert (1929), a lyrical account of the flavours of the choicest varieties of  the fruits then grown, but his Hand Book of Hardy Fruits (1920-25) made him the leading UK authority and it remains a key reference work to old varieties. By trade he was a nurseryman specialising in roses, as well as fruit, leading  the fashion for the revival of old roses and one of the most influential horticultural figures of his time, as well as a writer of some distinction.

The Downright Epicure is edited by Edward Wilson, who has aimed to draw together the different aspects of Bunyard’s many faceted life. Although often portrayed as a recluse living quietly in the midst of his orchards Bunyard had a busy professional and social life in London and travelled widely on the continent and elsewhere.

Edward Wilson opens the book with a  ‘Bibliographic Essay’, followed by a review of Bunyard’s literary tastes and an account of his long friendship with that well connected man of letters of the inter-war years, Norman Douglas. Alan Bell covers Bunyard’s role in the founding of the Saintsbury Club, which reflects his interest in wine and the pleasures of the table. This epicurean passion is placed in the context of the 1920s and 1930s with the looming threat of war by Richard Sharp. In his early years Bunyard briefly dipped into the science of genetics; this is discussed by Simon Hiscock. I have contributed chapters on his work as a nurseryman, pomologist, rosarian and committee man at the heart of  the Royal Horticultural Society.

The book is completed by Edward Wilson’s bibliography of the works of Edward Bunyard - 4 books and over 400 articles, including a selection of his ‘Letters to the  Times’.  

The Downright Epicure; Essays on Edward Bunyard (1878-1939); edited by Edward Wilson; published by Prospect Books; £30; pp 400.